I'm
sitting at an outdoor cafe overlooking the platia (the central
square) of Skyros-town. The square is bathing in sunshine, there's a
mild breeze and the temperatures have not risen to their summer
extremes yet. Good weather for walking. The square is about empty but
the main street is brimming over with life. There are still many
Athenians who stayed on for a little while after Greek Easter. Who
prefer the tranquility of an island not overrun my mass tourism to
the frenzy of the metropolis. Skyros is close to Athens or far off,
depending on the way you travel. By plane it's half an hour, not
counting the time you have to wait at the airport. If you travel by
boat you need to go down by car or bus to Kimi on Evia. The boat trip
to Linaria takes approximately one hour and a half. I love sailing, I
dislike driving and bussing. One of these days I may walk to Linaria,
about seventy five minutes from my hotel, to find out if I can sail
to Kimi and return straight away. Just to taste the salt of the
Aegean Sea.
A
few days ago I tasted some salt as well. On the road to Aspous, where
I am staying, which runs parallel to the sea. A strong wind sent
waves pounding the rocks. It made me think of that summer day in 1980
when I stood at the end of the Dingle Peninsula on the west coast of
Ireland with my love of those days. The waves had flung a dolphin on
the rocks. It must have been dead for days as it was heavily gnawed
at. By sea-gulls, I believe. It's amazing to see gulls following the
ship you're sailing in. When I hear gulls above the town, with their
sad cries, I get romantic memories of Conwy in Wales where I stayed
with other loves. First with a red haired elve from Cheshire and
later with the dark haired love of my life, from the land of the
nymphs. On Skyros lived more nymphs than anywhere else, but that's
chance. Sometimes gulls cause me to become somewhat melancholic, but
they happen to be cruel beasts, eager to pick out the eyes of people
drowning, I have been told.
On
the opposite side of the square is the town hall. The flags in front
of it, the Greek and that of the European Union, make a contrast with
the white-washed walls. It's a neo-classical building of moderate
size. Built at the end of the nineteenth or the beginning of the
twentieth century I guess. This morning Nikos gave me a lift to town.
He thinks of becoming a candidate in next year's elections for mayor.
I hope he succeeds. In that case he gets the key and will be able to
show me around in the centre of local power. Whether it's enviable to
be placed at the head of a small community in which you often find
the usual human qualities of hatred, malice and jealousy, behind a
facade of cordiality and hospitality, is another matter.
©C.A.
Klok
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